Day 22: Leaving Las Vegas

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We woke to the skyline of the strip with Luxor just a stone throws away. Kenzi had wanted to get up early before the heat, but I have to say I am not sure it ever really cooled off. She slept through the first two alarms so I knew she needed the rest. Finally, I got her up at 7am for I knew the heat was quickly rising as the sun was bouncing off the cars from our view. I decided to get a run in with the kids as they had planned an easy three mile and I thought I could handle the run even though it was already in the low 90’s. At this point, I was so regretting my decision to run tomorrow in Flagstaff.

We tried running around the three pools at Mandalay Bay, but quickly realized that was going to be too monotonous after the first mile so we left the property in search of shaded walkways and streets to finish. I completed a little over two miles before I put up the white flag. Though I have been swimming and biking with the kids, their 7:25 “easy pace” was my upper end and most of the time I just can’t hang with them as in my performance today. Of course, the other two completed the full run making only briefs stops at lights or to locate shade as I waited at corners trying to gasp the hot air as it was already pushing triple digits by 8:30am.

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The plan was to enjoy the pools in the morning and then go to Eat, the name of the restaurant after we checked out. So we snacked on apples, Vitamin waters and protein bars because if they stayed in the car much longer they would evaporate or melt. But this delay in filling the kids with real food was going to shortly bite us in the butt. By the time we finally checked out, loaded the car, drove to the spot, stopped to re-hitch Scott’s bike which had apparently fallen off the skewers on the road bump, it was 1:45pm. Kenzi like me, when hungry is not a pleasant person and she let us all know how displeased she was with today’s “plan.” In fact, attitudes were as hot as the dry air around us and I thought we might all combust. The food was absolutely delicious and diffused the situation for a bit, but perhaps waiting as long as we did was not the best decision for our family. It was hot, really hot and the temperatures kept climbing.

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After we Ate, and yes the inside door as we exited said “Ate,” we went to the Vegas Municipal Pool thirteen miles down the strip which I hate to say was awful. Not the pool water, but the pool facilities. First, the front desk clerk asked the kids to show her their swimsuits.  Weird??  I asked why and she said that sometimes kids come in and try and swim in their bra and underwear and that was not allowed.  Really, you think?  I guess even Vegas has some standards, though last night walking on the strip was questionable as the kids were exposed to a lot of color and we had a few questions to answer.  Anyway, the pool.  The pool was a large-50 meter by 25 meter, but the roof was only there to mute the bright sunlight as I think it was still 105 on the deck. According to a coach who approached us as the kids were swimming, apparently a number of years back someone thought it a great idea to weld the glass roof shut thus  turning the deck into a greenhouse. Apparently, this is the pool where triathletes go for training while in Vegas, probably just not in July and if only they brought their suits.

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When we left Vegas on our way to the Hoover Dam filled with trenta cups of ice from Starbucks, as the outside temperature registered 118. Our brief time in the city was an experience, but I was happy to say I was leaving Las Vegas. It had changed a lot in the last six years as everything seemed even more developed with gigantic, protruding MM’s and Coca-Cola billboards and very high end boutiques in front of the hotel/casinos.  Maybe they were there before but my spa retreat at Bellagio kept me from experiencing the strip.  What was very obvious was that the strip was divided straight down the middle.  One side catered to the high end rollers and the other was for those scraping the bottom of the barrel. It was an immediate and very obvious distinction between classes though the locals, trying to entice tourists to engage in “all things Vegas” were equal to both sides.  We are not gamblers and I detest the smell of smoke and had my fill of the ever present stench of clove cigarettes. I did have enough time to go to a spa this trip, and though it was fun to look at the beautiful and expensive labels lining the street, they were not something I would spend money on this trip.  Actually, probably never, though the clothes were as beautiful as the models wearing them.

 

We made it to the Hoover Dam for a quick 45 minute stop to look at the massive power plant.  Zach was impressed by the high security as the checked our vehicle and others thoroughly.  Kenzi was hoping to see the mountain goats climbing the dam or the Bighorn sheep in the surrounding mountains, but did not spot a single one though she gave it an honest attempt through the binoculars.  I think perhaps the heat had them in the shade while we were visiting.

 

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We might have been a bit to optimistic to make it to Flagstaff for dinner, so we stopped in Kingman, As Ristorante Italiano, a top ten rated restaurant in Arizona. What a nice surprise and after the food prices in Vegas, this was a bargain. Not really, but worth every penny.  From the piano player who greeted us when we walked in to the outstanding service, it was a treat to get out of the heat as it has been a long couple of days.  We devoured our food, right down to the last crumb in the bread basket. Kids WERE hungry and fell asleep a short time after filling their bellies.

We continued onto Flagstaff, another 2 hours away, enjoying the distant heat lightening across the landscape. It was beautiful and Kenzi and I commented numerous times how cool it was to see it so far away but Viv had her own thoughts and snuggled up tight with her stuffed black bear.  Scott strained to keep the car on the windy road.  In fact, there have been several times throughout the trip where the strong winds have been noticeable and I was thankful Scott was behind the wheel which has not come out of my mouth often this trip.  Truth be told, especially on those winding  and numerous California roads, I would have preferred to drive and be on the inside of those cliffs but I am “slowly” learning to surrender…..slowly.  Needless to say when we arrived, Scott and I unpacked the car as the kids went to bed.

 

 

Day 22: Leaving Las Vegas

Day 21: Near Death Valley Experience

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So we left late morning after the kids went for run and ride and made our way towards Mt Whitney. Nothing too spectacular to look at but as we were driving Scott mentioned a slight change to our schedule which had us in Flagstaff for Fourth of July. Immediately, before I lost cell service, I found the 3rd Annual 1 mile run before the parade in historic downtown Flagstaff and signed the kids and I up, as Scott was assigned photo and food duty.

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We finally made it to the entrance road to Mt Whitney, the highest place in the US above sea level, and it was a slow winding ten mile route to the base of the mountain. It was dry, barren land, littered with rocks of varying sizes and shapes and interesting mounds of sporadically placed rock structures, a few cactus, and dead branches and brambles decorating the landscape. It was a pretty hefty ascent from 3000-8000ft fairly quickly with “active bear zone” signs along the road. It sure did not look like bear country, but they have not been wrong thus far. As soon as we made it to the first visitors landing, the rocky ground turned into an oasis of mighty evergreens of various species and overturned trees as well a hidden stream and waterfall. I felt like I was in the middle of the bear exhibit at the zoo! No seriously, I am not sure they could made it look more real and at ever climb on a rock face or over turned log or bubbling pool, I asked the kids to stay vigilant. It looked as if at any point a cute little cub would ramble innocently over our immediate view and mother bear would be quickly behind. This was not an experience I was willing to test.

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After scaling as far as we felt comfortable near the waterfall, we decided to keep travelling. I am absolutely sure the additional 6000 foot ascent to 14,000 feet would have been worth it, but we had not the time nor energy in this rising heat to see more active bear signs. In fact, Scott spoke with some hikers that had stated that the temps drop about 25 degrees in the evening and that the bears started to “pack” according to the rangers, the night before. That did not sound good! One bear, fine. Three bears, one at a time fine, fine. A pack of bears were probably more than this Midwesterner was willing to expose her family to so with that final bit of information, we were on our way.

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At the bottom of the mountain, we picked up McDonalds swirl cones and travelled our way for another hour in the rising heat towards Death Valley. Personal comment injected…..I was not looking forward to the three hour drive across the desert terrain. We had three stops we had wanted to see, but we would play it by ear. I said a small breathe prayer that went something like this….”Please Lord keep us safe from the unknown and that they car do not die on us. We have gone 5500 miles steady and strong, with no major accidents or injuries and this would not be the day or time to decide to test this. Thank you and Amen.” I was sure that things were going to keep heating up and quickly.

I really did not know what to expect in Death Valley but since we went to the highest place above sea level, why not the lowest as they were relatively near one another. I definitely did not understand why people were wanting to spend time in this place complete with resorts, RV camping, and even a golf course? Who in there right mind would want to spend time other than to get a drink, souvenir and say you drove to the lowest place below sea level and the hottest place in the US? In fact the resort was full. Who are these people? But just before we entered the official park, which I might add was absolutely spectacular and I am not quite sure why it was not part of the official Death Valley, the first of four people were walking along the road with assist cars behind them. No offense to anyone reading this blog, but you have to be either nuts, or a complete and total badass, as there is no in between. We entered the park around 112 degrees and signs warned us throughout the journey to “Be careful next six miles high temps.” “Turn off AC next 10 miles to avoid overheating.” Are you kidding? It was now 116 and they want you to turn off your air?! The kids were asleep and Scott and I laughed again out loud. What on earth!

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We stopped a little over halfway at Stovepipe Wells Visitor Center in the only small patch of shade near the gas station we could find.   When I opened the car door, a heat I cannot even described, enveloped me. I stepped out and my arms immediately were filled with goose bumps. What a weird sensation. We went to the bathroom and even the water to wash our hands was hot, really hot. We hung out at the center for about fifteen minutes enjoying the cool air that only blew as patrons came in and out of the door, but kept the small shop cool. We left with one sticker, a glass and a stuffed scorpion that we had hoped to keep Viv distracted from the high heat as we knew we would have to turn it off from time to time, which we did.

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There were numerous dunes to see, but we stopped by Mesquite Flat Dunes, outside of Stovepipe Wells, where we saw more warning signs. This time it was regarding the sidewinder snakes. Scott was the only one to exit the vehicle as we all decided we could see the views without burning to a crisp. It would be another hour or so before we exited the park and did not need the smell of singed skin in the car to go along with the ever growing stench of Zach’s feet.  He always knew when Zach had repositioned himself, as the feet were a big detector of how far he had moved up and down his seat and placed his feet near the back of his head.

 

I will comment that there is no other place in the USA, and we have seen quite a bit, that you get so many different types of rock formations, geological layers of colorful earth, sand dunes, gravel, boulders etc in one condensed place. Though the heat was intense and I don’t think I have any plans to return at this point, it was an ultra-cool experience (funny choice of words) to see stone that varied from greens, to purples, burgundy and all sorts of warms tones. I thought Badlands was beautiful in all of its colorful splendor, but Death Valley top it from a prismatic wonder. If you can handle the heat, a definite must. I do not recommend travelling in July as the “No camping next 2 miles, 6 campers dead” are as strategically placed as the wildlife signs across our journey in the other parks.

 

 

Needless to say, with outside temps registering at 133, we opted to pass our next two stops including  Zabriskie’s Look Out which was right off the road but would require us to get out of the car and there was no shade and then to Badwater Basin, the lowest point below sea level. We were at -278 so we really did not feel the extra 4 feet was worth the 14 mile drive in the heat.

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Out of Death Valley and onward to Las Vegas for the evening. Hopefully the temps would be cooler, but I had my doubts. We secured a suite at Mandalay Bay on the south end of the strip. The price match last minute deals have really worked to our advantage. When we pulled in, we were met with another unexpected bonus…..free parking for the trailer and car in the Convention center, just south of the Four Seasons, the hotel next to us. Well, glad parking was free as I am sure that would be the last for the next 24 hours.

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After the half mile hike to our room and a quick change, we were off to dinner. There were many kid friendly options and equally as many that were not, as it was getting close to the clubs opening for the night. Kenzi and I were more tired than the rest of the crew, but rallied for dinner and a short walk on the strip then called it a night.

Day 21: Near Death Valley Experience

Day 20: Fresh, Salt or Chlorine…Got Water?

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After sleeping under the stars in Upper Pine Campsite at the base of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park, we had collectively decided that we LOVE camping! I am so glad we waited to tent camp until the weather cooperated as it would have been dismal and Yosemite was every bit the wait! Forget that we did not bring our golf clubs, chaps, or fishing rods as others might have, as we never felt without. There really was a little of everything for everybody old and young alike including a bear visit in the middle of the night which a park ranger scooted off. Though I did not make eye contact with the furry fellow, I heard him banging through a locker of a nearby campsite.

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The kids got up for an early 5 mile run and apparently saw numerous deer and wildlife which they captured on the Go Pro. With the Garmin watches that Kenzi secured through the first triathlon, they were able to run through the park with confidence mapping their route as they spurred one another on. Scott and I had more “pressing” plans as we broke out the French press coffee maker. Nothing like a nice dark cup of strong and delicious coffee to follow a night on the ground. I am definitely not complaining as I can sleep anywhere and actually prefer a hard service but it is always good practice to keep the driver and purse strings happy, happy, happy, and Scott loves his coffee. Again, I’m not complaining as I am beneficiary to both a pleasant attitude and the liquid gold.

After a yummy and filling breakfast of instant steel oats with honey, brown sugar and chia seeds, tortillas warmed and lightly charred using our propane burner with jam that we have collected throughout our hotel stays, and more coffee and hot tea, we packed up almost as efficiently as we made camp. A neighboring camp commented as I was tearing down tents how impressed she was with our family last night and how we worked together. Awesome-it was not just me and the validation almost brought tears to my eyes. With a 15, 13 and now 9 year old, trying desperately keep up with her older brother and sister, harmony, bliss, unification and togetherness are not always words used to describe our family at this stage in life. I wish I could say we acted like the Duggar’s, but that would require a whole lot kids I’m NOT counting. It was a proud momma moment.

After we packed up, we were not quite ready to leave the park so we decided to go to one of the many visitor centers to learn more about the granite formations. We spent another hour walking the valley before we got back on the road for what would be a long drive on the Tioga Pass which divided Yosemite. The first part of the drive we were questioning why so many recommendations were given to the drive, as nothing spectacular was seen compared to what the past 24 hours had unveiled. But finally about half way through our travels, we landed upon a scenic overview and it did not disappoint. A park volunteer offering views of the back side of Half Dome through his high powered telescope was super friendly and knowledgeable about the park, the local trails and the climb up Half Dome where we observed the 250 permits traversing the steep incline. They looked like a tiny ant trail. We learned that it takes an eight mile hike to the base of the mountain to climb and then another four to six hours to climb up to the top and then back down before dark. At the top, it takes fifteen minutes to walk from one side to another as it is equivalent to thirteen football fields. Maybe something to add to my bucket list or for a momentous birthday, but definitely when I am well rested and well fueled. We then were off to explore and look at the view from a little higher angle.

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At the top, we got an even more spectacular view including a very blue lake exiting the park, rock formations which people had carefully created and a close up view of a yellow bellied marmot. I would say it was a pretty good stop. However, as we climbed down the loose granite, I slid and landed on my left arm trying to save our Canon zoom lens. Ouch! That was going to smart. As the kids continued to bound up the other side of the mountain chasing lizards or what not, Scott took the camera and helped me to my feet so I could address my scraped up arm. Fortunately, we were not that far from the car and fortunately I had made a med kit with ever potion, cream and bandage available. Cleaned up, we made our way down to the valley when all of a sudden a great eruption broke out as all of the kids screamed, “Look how clear the water is! Oh, please, please, please can we swim?”

So we stopped at Tenaya Lake which was crystal clear and cold, though not as cold as the Bay. Scott and the kids donned their swimsuits. Unfortunately, Scott put his on inside out (perhaps from not getting the best sleep) and had a repeat performance of his changing skills roadside. Bad news of being on the passenger side was that even though I am high up in an SUV, “some people” think they can do various forms of business roadside, keeping them private from the rest of the world. Unfortunately for me, I got a full front view of all things male. Anyway, after all that changing, Scott only got up to his knees. After a little body temp regulation, the other three were swimming in the icy clear water. They even brought the Go Pro but we quickly realized that once it goes underwater you lose your immediate connection to the smart phone for instant viewing. They were definitely having fun playing with it and I would say that one out of every five families we see traveling this summer had a GoPro.

After the swim it as more driving. Our next stop would be Mono Lake, apparently the only salt water lake in the country. It is supposedly twice as salty as the ocean and due to its alkaline properties, people swim in it. Afterwards you are completely white so we were up for the experience. Unfortunately, all the hype was definitely not worth it even if it was on the way. It was smelly and had equal amount of dead gulls as live on the beaches as well as millions of tiny flying black bugs. To get to the water you had to find one of several hard salt mounds that were surrounded by a greyish black sludge. Kids made lemonade out lemons and had fun creating videos and being totally silly with salt lake background. At least we were able to grab very expensive swirl ice cream cones before we made our way to Mammoth.

This would probably be a good time to share how we spend long drive times with little viewing opportunities. Of course, there was the occasional “She/he is on my side” but that has been less than expected. There has been the “But I was singing that song first” and “He/she is singing it wrong” conversations. Several books have been read, workbook pages completed, and a couple of dozen loops of Frozen complete with full background ensemble of the Wilson trio. Scott has several times threatened to dispose of the movie if he has to listen to it one more time. Vivian, our most passionate singer, never leaves an opportunity on the table to give it her full theatrical performance, facial expression and at. As you can imagine, this leaves lots of room for Zach and Kenzi, but mainly Zach full brotherly rights to engage. Ugggh.
After leaving INYO National Forest, actually I am not sure we ever left the forest until at some point the next day as I was still seeing signs almost to Mt Whitney. Our plans were to see Devils Postpile in Mammoth, but due to the limited access with the trailer, we were forced to take a shuttle, which we all agreed we were not thrilled with messing with due to the time of day. Besides, we have seen a lot of really cool rock formations and though it was rated high on Roadtrippers, we passed. We briefly stopped in Mammoth for a bathroom break but decided to continue on to Bishop to break up the trip the next day to Mt Whitney. Besides there was a pool the kids could get some yardage in late in the day. As we continued driving we saw our first dust devil swirl out in a field several hundred yards from the road. We also saw a huge flock of dirt cream colored sheep that looked almost like the boulders that surrounded them at the base of one of the many hills. We have seen so many things and ninety percent of the trip has just been a visual wonderland.

 

Kids arrived just in time to get a late afternoon swim completed. I think they are starting to appreciate the cold clean water of their home facility. The head coach was a former ITU triathlete and was most accommodating to the kids, even opening up another lane line during her practice for them. But the water was hot and saturated with chlorine. There are just not a lot of options in these small towns.   Then we or “I” chose a place that received high reviews for dinner even though it looked like a hole in the wall. It was definitely a hole in the wall, decorated in full Latino regale, complete with an old El Dorado parked in front. Lots of color, random pictures and plants that I am sure had meaning to the family. It was absolutely the most authentic small town Mexican restaurant I had personally ever been too. I felt like I was in someone’s home. I actually think perhaps the restaurant was secondary to the town’s tax shop in season as the file cabinets in the far back room and the conference chairs around each of the mix matched tables screamed second business. Or perhaps it was an exotic bird/reptile dealer as the three large Blue and Gold Macaws, a Citron Crested Cockatoo, five parrot fish, two Red-eared sliders and several dozen large goldfish were keeping the kids entertained before the food arrived. Kenzi was not sure it was up to code. Perhaps it was the waitress who said “I am better at taxes that I am a waitress,” though she was friendly and prompt with our incredibly delicious and authentic made with love food.

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The evening ended with Scott grumbling that we had more laundry to do, graciously took on the responsibility when we got back to the motel. Again, every day is unique and though this was on the lower end of motels, it helped keep us on budget as we knew we have a few bigger expenses coming down the road.

Day 20: Fresh, Salt or Chlorine…Got Water?

Day 19: Yosemite-A Most Unexpected Day

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The day started a little later anticipated but I think the hot sun took it out of us and it felt good to sleep in. There were two different clubs that the kids could have swum with but times were not great and they were still jaded by the previous experience. I really pushed for another try, but was out-voted so they swam at a local athletic club. Though I had wanted them to swim with a team that had several options for practices, the kids really wanted to do the prescribed practice from Zach’s home coach. Unfortunately, the “athletic center” that was available was not exactly up to our standards for a pool including the fact that the outdoor pool’s dimensions were 50 x 30, which converted equaled 18.33 yards x 10 yards, with no lanes. I guess there would enjoy a lot of flip turn work! Actually, they completed the practice and more. Scott stayed back at the Best Western to catch up on emails and phone calls.

After loading up and a quick clean out of the car, we made a strategic stop to the post office and grocery store. Scott treated to “pick your own lunch” as everything was close by. We all decided on Jimmy John’s except Zach whose interested took him to the “Grand Opening” sign of a fast food Chinese restaurant. Everyone, happy and full, we made our way to the southwest entrance of Yosemite.

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We purposely delayed going into Yosemite until mid to later afternoon. Upon arriving, I was not sure this was going to be my favorite. I know many artist have made a big deal over the national park, but I had my doubts. Muted colors of browns and green and rocks- lots and lots of rocks. Maybe this was not the best season to see the park? There were more pine trees not of any particular identifying or memorable characteristics and more canyon views. I hate to sound spoiled, but my attitude was “Been there, seen that.” I thought I was in for another day of curving, winding roads and longed for Glacier or the Tetons. If only we could have been there on a warmer sunnier day.

And then it happened. We drove the 14 miles into the park where we had to unhitch the trailer. Zach and Kenzi went up the mountain for a two mile up and down, switchback filled run to Glacier Point where we said we would meet them. As Scott and I drove, we meet up with them and started videoing the run. They are fun to watch as they train with one another. As they rounded the bend on the no shoulder road, their run was immediately overshadowed by the massive expanse of the mountains made famous by Adams, Hill and Bierstadt. So much beauty and so much power and strength portrayed over the endless skyline of granite rock. What an incredible backdrop to train and run. The mountains were less majestic than Glacier, but much more impressive and I felt humbled by my previous thoughts.

As I was inhaling the air at 7200 feet and becoming intoxicated by the breathtaking views of Half Dome, Vernal and Nevada Falls, the kids had made friends with a few California grey squirrels and the Sierra fence lizards that took a liking to them. Due to the sheer numbers of people visiting the parks and its wilderness, and much to the rangers, conservationists and park volunteer’s requests, animals have become much too comfortable with the guests and adoringly and aggressively seek handouts. After snapping a few hundred pictures, including pictures of kids in the clouds, we made our way back down the mountain and into the valley where the kids were hoping to get a ride in as it was still early evening and we had a few good hours of daylight. And then again we spotted yet another baby black bear grazing in a field, the third of the trip! This has been amazing as we had seen one in Yellowstone, one in Glacier and now in Yosemite.

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There were more incredible views as we descended approximately 3000 feet into the village, passing through the mile long Wawona Tunnel, as hoards of people gathered at ever stopping point, making it difficult for a still picture. This park definitely had the most visitors of all we have been to thus far. As Scott and the kids were preoccupied with their ride into Curry Village, I was more worried about dinner and where we might sleep for the night. Zach had insisted on finishing up his daily training because apparently 400 sprints uphill was not enough and daylight was a precious commodity at this point. They kids however really wanted to camp and I totally concurred as I too would love the opportunity to finally sleep under the star filled sky. However, I also knew reservations were booked months in advanced and it would be a sheer act of God if we secured a spot. My tune had obviously changed from earlier in the morning as this place was AMAZING!!! It was quiet and peaceful but so full of life as we observed numerous deer feeding by the road and hikers taking last minute photos. You smelled the smoke of evening campfires as the sun was slowly setting in the valley. I so wanted to camp but knew disappointment was just around the bend. How possibly could the blessings continue as we have had so many God filled moments of perfectly timed adventures?

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Curry Village and the surrounding camp areas where like a world within a world and as I drove to meet Scott and the kids. I wish we had planned on camping here but we just did not know definitely when our travels would take us into the park. We went into a parking lot for camp reservations and we had missed the check in by 45 minutes. With no ranger around, we sat in the parking lot preparing a game plan when a service truck pulled up and asked if we needed help as our trailer was pulled into the lot a bit haphazardly. What we also did not know was that unclaimed and cancelled campsites were given out by lottery. Every morning you can check availability and place your name on a list. If available, you are informed by 3:30. There just so happened that there were five sites available that evening at PRIME locations in the Upper Pine campsite and we and another hopeful family secured a spot under Half Dome! Holy smokes batman! Are you kidding? This was truly a gift from God. This whole trip has been and we thank him daily for his provision, safety and beauty as He travels with us on this journey filled with phenomenal opportunities. I am so thankful that my husband had the courage to take on this challenge.

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Okay, so the Wilsons went into combat mode. They knew this was a unique opportunity and incredible blessing and they showed up. We arrived at our site and it was if a team on well-orchestrated ants with a strategic mission had descended upon the small lot. You could not have found a more efficient, well-oiled team in the entire park. They knew we had limited time to set up camp, get dinner and have a fire before the 10pm deadline. Kenzi prepared the tents and Zach raked the ground. Scott unloaded and Viv helped bring sleeping bags and place all food in the bear container. I started dinner of Ramen, apples and day old bread from Jimmy Johns. Our neighbor, Scott, stopped by to welcome us and offered any help. We secured a few pieces of firewood from him for preparing s’mores as the store was a short drive away but time was not on our side. I was so impressed by our family and how we were worked together and quietly which is rare for the Wilsons.

After a thorough clean up, everyone went to their tents (we had two) and called it an evening.

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Day 19: Yosemite-A Most Unexpected Day

Day 18: The Mighty Hot Monolith

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After waking early to a very bright and hot California sun at a rest area just east of Cambria, Scott continued the journey in search of gas and hopefully a Starbucks or espresso shop. Either I am finally getting use to this roadside sleep or I just don’t care anymore, but I slept rather well last night outside of Paso Robles with the numerous stars above my head.  Unfortunately, the rest stop lights dulled my view so I would have to wait for a true night under the stars.

Just as we pulled into a small town about thirty minutes away, the kids woke with eager anticipation of filling their bellies and brushing their teeth, not necessarily in that order. After a quick trip through Starbucks and a morning cleanup break, we continued toward the hot sun. What a complete difference from a little over a week ago in Glacier where it was 18 degrees!   Glad we prepared with a variety of clothing options as we were definitely going to be in shorts at some point in the day. As we drove the dry dusty terrain, we noticed little wildlife but several water sources that seem to be down and for the first time signs posted that you could have fires in the campgrounds. All along our journey thus far, there have been numerous signs stating a fire ban or fire permit required but not near Sequoia. Apparently, they allowed contained fires within the campgrounds and were even setting controlled fires in the park

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We ate at a cute little diner just outside of Sequoia National Park called We Three. Though we were not super hungry, I told the kids to fill up as we had a day of hiking and would probably not be eating until Fresno for dinner. We dined on the freshest cinnamon rolls and bear claw pastries and shared a few egg dishes and it was not hard to get it down. The walls were lined with pictures of soldiers past from around the area as well as memorabilia from various wars. I think just dining at the many local breakfast spots has been an unexpected treat along the way and seems to be a favorite amongst the kids. Before we left, we took a few more pastries for the road. Though we were heading into bear country, I was confident they would long be gone before the scent would attract the nostrils of a wandering bear.

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We entered the park and once again we’re blown away by the exquisite landscape. Quite different from the Redwood Forest which was lush and green and moist, this terrain was filled with boulders almost the size of the trees we came to see. The hills were filled with varying shades of greens and burgundy’s that looked exactly like they had been plucked from a model train set. The sun was hot. In fact, the car temp registered 94 at 10:17am. Before the kids exited the car to climb all over the terrain, I sprayed everyone several times with 50spf as I could feel my skin already cooking in the car. It was going to be a hot one. We stopped by the visitor’s center to confirm the trails and most notable sights we wanted to see while we were in the park. Though they highly suggested not taking our trailer through the park due to all the switchbacks and pitch, Scott was confident that we could handle anything after our trip up and down HWY1.

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Lots of great pictures as we made our way up the winding terrain and by this point I had become use to (not comfortable) with tight turns, oncoming cars and steep 5000 ft elevation drops at a slow incline. We finally hit the famous Sequoias. WOW! Big, red, and prominent. They say that the Redwoods are taller and the Sequoias are fatter but that is not what I noticed as most seem to be the same size at least in girth as the Redwoods. What I did notice however was that the Sequoias stood out amongst numerous species of fir, pines and hemlock. Not just because eof their size but The were large and red and were set apart from the rest of the evergreens and ferns which made it even more spectacular. Many of the non-Sequoia trees had a moss green lichen covering up and down there trunks called wolf lichen, a cross between both and appears to grow on dying or unhealthy trees.

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Our first stop was Moro Rock, a large monolith structure overlooking the entire valley. The kids ran the 1.5 mile trail to the top were Scott and I followed with Viv for a nice walk to Moro from the Museum.  I wish I could describe the smell. The Redwoods were like Christmas and the smell in the Sequoia’s was more of a primitive pioneer sight, with a slow burning stench of a campfire. Scott and I marveled at the enormity of the trees as we walked along the forest floor filled with scurrying small grey squirrels the size of chipmunks, jade flecked lizards, feathery ferns, burnt out trees and sporadically placed purple lupine plants. IN fact, there was a large tree which looked like a smoke stack, as white smoke billowed from its charred remains. At first, we thought it odd, but then noticed signs later on of these “controlled burns.”

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Once there, we climbed the 423 stone steps to the very top fitted with hand rails. It was breathtakingly beautiful for more reasons than one. That was a hike! Our next stop was, Tunnel Log and Crescent Meadow, high up in the Sierras and then our final stop in Sequoia National Park was General Sherman. All were spectacular and General Sherman by far was the largest tree I have ever seen and a must see for anyone headed out to this national park.

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We ended the afternoon with a drive through Kings Canyon and then on to Fresno where we would finally get into town early enough for a sit down meal and early check-in at the hotel.   The hotel manager informed us that Fresno had hit 104 today and was expected to get hotter tomorrow. I was ready for a shower, clean clothes and an opportunity to relax. Tomorrow would be another full day as we travel to Yosemite.

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 [KW1]

Day 18: The Mighty Hot Monolith